Can you cover charcoal with gesso?

Brenda asks:
I want to sketch with charcoal on canvas board, then gesso the board before painting with acrylics. Will that work? Why or why not?

As far as I know, all gesso is opaque—either white or black. Therefore, it will cover up your charcoal work and you will not be able to see it. Further, gesso is generally applied with a brush and would smear your charcoal drawing. To do what you are describing, you need to spray your charcoal sketch with a clear fixative (either charcoal fixative or a crystal clear water-based varnish. This will seal your charcoal sketch and allow you to paint over it with your acrylics without smearing your charcoal.

Hope this helps.

Judy Leasure, TDA
My art blog: http://www.jalstudios.blogspot.com
My art pictures: http://www.picturetrail..com/jleasure
My art store: http://www.jalstudios.etsy.com

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How to make fabric banners

Dasha asks:
I'd like to know how to make large fabric icons on a flexible material, such as muslin or drop-cloth type canvas (flexible) to hang in the newly painted hallway. They will hang like banners. I hope to have them there for some years to come. The actual painting will be done by the kids, ranging in age from PreK to High School. Adults will do the prep work. What do you suggest for a primer and finisher. What do you suggest? Thank you. Dasha
I would do this project as simply as possible. Whenever working with children, the KISS method (Keep It Simple Sweetheart) is definitely the best way to go.

First, select your fabric—a heavy muslin or sailcloth would work well. You want something with enough weight that it will hang straight without having to weight the bottom. Try to get something with a fairly smooth texture. Wash the fabric to remove any sizing and put in the dryer without any softener. At this point, I would make my banners: cut to size, hem all edges, reinforce the top edge with a rod pocket so that you can run a dowel or wooden slat through it so it will hang straight and flat, attach hanging rings or tabs, or whatever mechanism you are going to use to hang them on the wall. Finally, press your banners so that they are flat and without wrinkles.

Now you are ready to paint. If I were doing this project, I would use DecoArt SoSoft fabric paint. This brand stays flexible, does not require heat setting to become permanent, and you can apply it using regular paint brushes. The downside is that it comes in rather small bottles. It does not require a lot of paint to cover an area, however. Once finished, leave them to dry for at least 24 hours. You can then press them lightly to remove any wrinkles and hang them up. No special finish is necessary and they should last for many years. They will also be washable if that is a concern. I have painted clothing with these paints and they wash and dry very well without fading, chipping, or cracking. For a piece that will simply hang on a wall, wear should not be a problem at all.

If you choose to use regular craft acrylic paints, you can do that instead. The preparation would be the same. The finished product may be a little less washable, but again you are not wearing these pieces and they should not get terribly dirty. Acrylic paints also would not need any sort of primer or finish coat to make them quite permanent. If you choose to use regular acrylics, I would use DecoArt Americana or Delta Ceramcoat. These are both high quality paints and will hold up well over time. You do need to be careful not to apply the paint too heavily (thick). If you wish you can add textile medium to the paint prior to applying it.

For brushes, you can use regular craft paint brushes for either of these approaches. You may find that flat or filbert brushes with somewhat shorter hairs will work better because they will be able to scrub the paint into any texture on the fabric. If you are highlighting and shading any of the elements in the design, working with the fabric paints will allow you to blend while the paint is wet. For any line work, you will want to use long-haired liner brushes. Make sure your table is covered with craft paper and do not move the piece while it is being painted. The paint will go though the fabric and you don’t want to mess up your painting by moving it around an picking up paint off the table cover.

I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can be of further help. Let us know how your icons turn out.

Judy Leasure, TDA

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Making a removable painted decal for clothing

Dolphin45 asks: What type of paints and pens should I use on my daughter's tutu? I have to make a silver or gold design on it and it needs to look professional. Do you know of anywhere to get these items and names of products so I can get them asap.

I wrote and asked Dolphin45 what the tutu was made of - the answer was lycra.

I don't like to paint on lycra because I think when it is stretched the edges are never sharp looking. What I suggest is making your design separately and then attaching it to the tutu. There is a new product called Styli'Stick (from Pebeo) that will allow you to make a decal that can be ironed on to the lycra. I think this is ingenious because you could make a nice design and then because the decal is removable you can use the tutu for other shows. The Styli Sticks come in many colors as well as metallics.
Hope this helps!
Judi

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Can I use acrylics instead of gesso for base coat?

JK asks:
Can I use white acrylic paint instead of gesso for the base of my oil painting?

I can tell you what I do. I don't gesso anything. I don't even think I own any gesso. Most of the stretched canvases you purchase today are already prepared with gesso and so are ready for painting. I like to use board rather than canvas. I personally don't care for the texture of canvas in my finished work. I purchase gesso board. This is masonite that has had gesso applied to one side. It comes in a variety of sizes from 4x4 inches to quite large. I generally work with smaller sizes: 4x4, 5x5, 6x6, 5x7, 8x10. You could purchase a piece of double faced masonite and cut it yourself then apply gesso if you wish. I'd rather buy it prepared. There are several different brands. The one I prefer is Ampersand and can be purchased from a number of on-line sources.

That said, you can paint oils over an acrylic base. I frequently do a value scale underpainting in Burnt Sienna and then appply my oils over that. Robert Warren actually base coats his canvases with orange acrylic and then does a value scale underpainting using black acrylic before applying oils. I have also used unprepared masonite. With this product I sand the surface to remove the shine and then apply two coats of bottled acrylic paint with a roller letting it dry between coats.

Many of the gessos you buy today are acrylic based. So, the short answer is yes, you can paint your canvas in whatever color acrylic paint you would like before applying your oils. There is no rule that says you have to start with a white surface, In fact, because most oils are translucent, the base color of the canvas can influence your finished piece in some wonderful ways. Gesso is a thicker product and if you are stretching your own canvases using unprepared canvas, then a couple of coats of gesso will give your canvas more body and seal the fabric so that it will accept paint properly. At the end of the day, for me it is too much trouble. I'd rather purchase my supports ready to paint. I'd rather paint than prepare surfaces.

Hope this helps.

Judy Leasure

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What is the best masking fluid for watercolor work?

Ruth asks:
I'd like to know of all the masking fluids out there to use in watercolor, which one is the very best? Many thanks.

All of the masking fluids are pretty much the same. They are a liquid latex material. The biggest difference is that some of them have a colorant and others are white. Some of the colored ones are blue and others are yellow.

There is one product called Masque-Pen that comes in a smaller plastic bottle with a writing tip. I tend to use that one a lot becasue I can create lines without using a brush or I can put some out in a puddle and apply it to a larger area with a brush. At the end of the day, which one you choose is a matter of personal preference. I like the ones that have color because I can see where I put it. The white ones look just like the paper and it is hard to see where you have been. Unless you are going to be using masking fluid really often or on very large areas, I would buy the smallest container you can find. The fluid will congeal into a solid mass over time and then it is no good.

Hope this helps.

Judy Leasure,TDA

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What is a good fabric pen to use?

Clare asks:
I want to paint designs on my dance costume which is made from lycra and powernet. Which fabric pens should I use?

I would recommend FabricMate pens. You can buy these at some of the local hobby shops. But you can also find both the superfine and the chisel tips at Dharma Trading.
* These fabric pens contain fabric dyes that are permanent without heat setting.
* The colors mix together just like dyes.
* They also have a unique tip that tapers to a superfine point so you can vary the thickness of your line by altering the angle of pen.
* They come in a fabulous array of 29 colors.

Best of luck - and remember to consider the stretch of your fabric when you paint.
Judi

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Can you use plastic tools with Genesis paints?

Judi asks:
Why can't I use plastic with Genesis paints?

Plastic will leach the polymer oils out of the paint as will paper. If you work the paint with a plastic palette knife, it may not get smooth and creamy, it just might get stiffer and stiffer as the oils leach out. That's also why you use glass as a palette instead of paper or other material.

Judy Leasure, TDA

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How to make your own wet palette

No questions came in today so I am going to direct you to a very informative post by our expert decorative painter, Judy Leasure. She explains how you can make your own wet palette to keep your acrylic paints from drying out so quickly as you work with them.

Great information!

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Can you use masking fluid on canvas?

Don asks:
Can you use masking fluid on canvas?

If the canvas is well gessoed, it might work, but it would not be my first choice as a surface. Do not use it on raw canvas or any other fabric for that matter. It gets down into the fibers and simply won't come out. Remember that masking fluid is designed for use with watercolor. If you are careful, you can try it with other water-based media. I don't think I would try it with oils because I think the oil paints would simply cover it up and it would be difficult to remove without damaging the painted area surrounding it. Aside from the fact that it is a temporary coating on your surface, the latex also repels water, so the paint does't stick to it, either.

Hope this helps.

Judy Leasure, TDA

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How to unclog a Micron Pigma pen

Judi writes:
My .005 Micron Pigma pen clogs easily. Right now I can't get it to write at all. Can you help me?

Yes and no. I have the same problem with mine and haven't found a satisfactory answer. I wrote to the folks at Sakura about it and here's what they say:

The Micron nib will absorb loose material such as pencil dust which could clog the nib. The 005 is also very delicate and if the nib is bent, it will appear dry.


Pigma Micron Care and Quality

Sakura invented Microns as an inexpensive and disposable alternative to high-priced technical pens while maintaining technical-pen quality. Microns were originally designed for fine-line technical and art drawing but their use has spread to every-day applications.

Most complaints we receive about Microns concern bent tips. Like technical pens, Microns are meant to be written with at a 90 degree angle. Also like technical pens, people don’t need to apply as much pressure to Microns for receiving a “healthy’ ink flow. Shaking or dropping the Micron will cause the ink to flood around the ink wick and flood the cap. If you apply these practices, you will receive far more satisfaction using the Micron pen.


How can I make my Pigma® Microns last longer?



Pigma Microns are considered disposable pens. The product specifications and design use are for paper and not for rough surfaces such as wood or nubby fabrics.


a. Hold your Pigma Micron pen in a 90° degree position while writing. This will prevent uneven wear to the tip of the nib. They should be stored horizontally with their caps securely fastened.


b. Use a 05 or 08 point size when marking against hard, rough surfaces such as wood or nubby fabrics.


c. Use more than one pen, and rotate your pen use. This allows pens to rejuvenate the ink flow overnight and this extends the life of the pen.


d. Do not press down hard on the nib while you write. The excessive pressure wears down the plastic nib faster, especially on rough surfaces.


e. Do not make long uninterrupted lines against rough paper surfaces or wood with the pen. Make shorter line strokes and the pen nib will last longer.


f. When writing on paint, make sure that the paint is fully dried, not just surfaced cured. Acrylic paints may feel dry to the touch but just below the surface, may not be. The nib picks up bits of the wet paint and will clog easily. One needs to experiment to be sure the paint is completely dry due to differences in weather conditions. Remember, the paint drying time will differ depending upon the brand of paint you use.


g. If you have one Micron pen which is out of ink (and the nib is not clogged), you can exchange its nib with another Micron pen which is not out of ink, but has a clogged nib. Here's how -- With a needle nose pliers, firmly grasp the metal sleeve and gently pull the nib straight out. A long ink wick will be attached to the back of the nib holder. This ink wick is what brings the ink to the nib. Do the same for the bad nib / ink-full pen. Now gently insert the good nib into the pen with ink. Make sure the nib assembly is seated snugly into the pen barrel. Put the cap back on the pen. Then you must wait for about 3 hours for the ink to gradually pull itself through the ink wick into the nib. Do not try to rush the process by shaking the pen - you'll only create a mess by making the ink go around the ink wick and flood the pen cap. (Note: This process does not always work, but it is worth a try. Also, do not mix ink colors. Do not take a red pen nib and insert it into a green ink pen!)

h. Do not try to put any other brand ink refill into the Pigma Microns pens. They will not work.

Hope this helps!

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How to use fabric as a stencil

Randy asks:
Do you know any shortcuts for stenciling? I like the look of stenciling on furniture but I just can't be bothered.

The only thing that comes to mind is spraypainting through lace. This will give you a negative so you have to think about what the base color will be. Let me explain - say you have lace with flowers on it - the flowers will be woven fairly solid so the paint won't penetrate. If you want red roses you need to paint, say, your table top, red. Then use a different color to spray through the lace with. The paint will go through all the 'holes' and leave a negative impression of the design. It won't be as crisp and sharp as a stencil but it's quick.

Hope this helps,
Judi

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Where to find clear glass paperweights for decoupage

Darlene says:
I'd like to know where to find clear glass paperweights. I saw some in the Oriental Trading catalog but I wonder if there are other higher quality (but reasonably priced) paperweights for sale. I want to use them for decoupage.

I only found one company that had cheaper prices than Oriental Trading, and it was only about 30 cents cheaper per item. So you would have to check on shipping costs to see the bottom line cost. There really isn't a way to compare quality online. I haven't dealt with this company so I can't endorse them. I have bought from Oriental Trading Company before and haven't had any problems with them.

A lot of times the search terms you use really define what you find. Pay attention to what the companies you research are calling the paperweights. I found a lot of sites calling these blanks. So you can search online for glass blanks and see what you can find.

Best of luck,
Judi

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Alternatives to latex masking fluids

Wendy says:
I love the effects from masking fluid, but have a serious allergic reaction to rubber latex (which can be fatal to me). Is there any alternative I can use? I would appreciate any help you have.

This is a very good question and one that might help a lot of people. Thank you for asking.

To the best of my knowledge, all liquid masking fluids or liquid friskets are made from liquid latex. So the liquids are definitely a problem for you. There are other methods you can use to mask areas of your painting, however.

1. You can use watercolor tape. This is a low tack tape that you apply to the areas you want to protect and remove after you have painted over them just as you would masking fluid. This works best for geometric figures, although you could cut shapes out of the tape before you apply it to the paper.
2. Grafix makes a product they call Frisket that is in sheet form. According to their website, it is a vinyl sheet that has a low-tack glue on one side. It is widely used in printing and air brushing where you cut out the area you WANT to paint and use the sheet to cover the rest of your paper (opposite what we normally do in watercolor), but you could also cut out a shape from the sheet and attach that to your paper to use it like liquid frisket/masking fluid. If your allergy does not include vinyl, this may be a really good option for you.
3. You can use a wax or white crayon. However, this is a permanent mask. Once applied to your paper, it will not come off. Only use this if you want to permanently keep an area of the paper white.

I hope this helps.

Judy Leasure, TDA

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What is gesso?

Marge asks:
What is Gesso?

Gesso is a product that is used by artists in preparing a canvas, board, or other surface for painting. It is primarily used in oil painting applications, but can also be used to prepare a surface for acrylic painting. I have even seen some interesting multi-media or collage projects that incorporated watercolor with a gesso base. I checked Wikipedia for more information, and this is what I found:

"Gesso" is the Italian word for chalk and is a powdered form of the mineral calcium carbonate used in art. Gesso was traditionally mixed with animal glue, usually rabbit-skin glue, to use as an absorbent primer coat for panel painting with tempera paints. It is a permanent and brilliant white substrate, as long as it is used on wood or masonite. This mixture is rather brittle and susceptible to cracking, thus making it unsuitable for priming canvas.

Acrylic gesso

Modern acrylic "gesso" is actually a combination of calcium carbonate with an acrylic polymer medium and a pigment. It is sold premixed for both sizing and priming a canvas for painting. While it does contain calcium carbonate to increase the absorbency of the primer coat, Titanium dioxide or titanium white is often added as the whitening agent. This allows the "gesso" to remain flexible enough to use on canvas. High concentrations of calcium carbonate will cause the resulting film to dry to a brittle surface susceptible to cracking

Acrylic gesso can be colored, either commercially by replacing the titanium white with another pigment, such as carbon black, or by the artist directly, with the addition of an acrylic paint. Acrylic gesso can be odorous, due to the presence of ammonia and/or formaldehyde which are added in small amounts as preservatives against spoilage. Pre-gessoed canvases can be obtained commercially.

Acrylic gesso is a modern art material, and has a proven record as a contemporary primer for oil painting and acrylics. Many of the solvents used in oil painting, such as turpentine or odorless thinners, will leach some oil through a thin acrylic primer coat and damage the canvas underneath just like traditional hide glue sizing. However, sufficient coverage and penetration of an absorbent support is archivally acceptable. The non-absorbancy of the acrylic base is the big advantage contemporary gesso has over traditional hide-glue/flake white grounds. Hide glue will absorb moisture and shrink and expand with climate change, making an unstable support for paint films to sit on. Acrylic gesso is not a suitable substitute for classic chalk gesso in classic applications.

Hope this helps.
Judy Leasure, TDA

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How to attach canvas to masonite

Leah asks:
How do you attach canvas to masonite?

My first question would be why? Masonite is a wonderful surface for painting on with either oils, Genesis, or acrylic paints. You can purchase pre-gessoed masonite (known as gesso board) or you can prepare it with gesso yourself. You can also paint directly on the board without gesso if you basecoat it with a couple of coats of acrylic paint first.

That said, if you really need to apply canvas to masonite, then you need to use an acid-free glue. Cut your canvas slightly larger than the piece of masonite. Spread a thin layer over the entire surface of the masonite and then lay on your canvas. Use a brayer or your hands to smooth the surface so that you get all the air bubbles out. Let it dry and then trim the edges of the canvas flush with the edges of the masonite or wrap the edges around the masonite and glue them down on the back. If you are going to do this, it is very important to get all the air bubbles out. Otherwise you will have a lumpy, ugly surface which will be visible in your finished work.

I have not done this myself as I prefer to paint on as smooth a surface as possible. If you are just looking for a rigid backing for canvas as an alternative to stretchers, then you can purchase canvas boards which are canvas wrapped around a cardboard support or canvas already attached to hardboard.

Hope this helps.
Judy Leasure, TDA

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Comparison chart for PrismaColor and Faber-Castell pencils

Lee says:
I'd like to know how to figure out which pencil colour matches in different brands. I have PrismaColour and Faber-Castell pencil but have been given a list of Derwent pencils and I was wondering how to match the colours correctly. I have seen a conversion list in the past and I was hoping someone would be able to help me with this query.

I imagine your list must have been posted on a forum. I was able to find the chart that you probably have - the Rembrandt to PrismaColor to Derwent. But you know what? It might be a little bit of work - but you should make your own chart. Color in little squares with each color - making sure to write the brand and color name/number under the square. Cut all the squares out and match the colors up as close as you can. As each company uses their own formulation for colors you probably won't get exact matches. Then you can either make a text chart of your own or just glue the squares to a chart. That way you aren't relying on someone else's 'eye' but your own. It would be great to have on hand - especially if you set it up like a color wheel.

If you choose not to do that I suggest popping over to Wet Canvas, an absolutely huge forum for artists. They have a section just for artists working with color pencils and you can ask your question there.

Hope this helps,
Judi

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What is masking fluid and how do you use it?

Sherry asks:
I saw the Queen's Anne Lace photo on Judy's blog and just loved it! I was wondering what she used to mask off the flowers. Thanks.

Thanks, Sherry. That was a project I taught to senior citizens, quite successfully, I might add! It is easy enough for kids or seniors with a bit of preparation on your part. Here's how I did it ...

There are a couple of different kinds of masking fluid. The easiest one to find comes in a bottle and you can buy it at any Michael's or A C Moore. You will find it in the fine art aisle. There are a number of different brands. There is one by Winsor & Newton that comes in a pretty large glass bottle and may be either white or yellow. The one I prefer is the Susan Scheewe brand. It comes in a 2-ounce plastic bottle and is blue. I like the smaller amount because I don't use a lot of it.

What I use for my adult classes is called Masque-Pen. I order it from Art Supply Warehouse (www.aswexpress.com) The nice thing about it is that it comes in a small plastic bottle with a small metal tip. You can create fine lines just with the tip or you can squeeze out a puddle to brush onto a larger area.

Masking fluid is liquid latex. If you are using a brush, you want to use an old round brush you don't really care about. Dip the brush in clear water and then roll it over a bar of soap (I use Ivory and just keep it in my watercolor bag) until it has plenty of lather all the way up to the ferrell. Then dip the brush into the masking fluid. You have about 10 minutes to work before you have to rinse the brush and start over. If you just use plain water, you should not work for more than about 30 seconds before rinsing and starting over. Your brush is toast if the product dries. Don't forget to empty the water you use to rinse the soap out of the brush and get fresh before you start painting.

For the Queen Anne's Lace project, I used a small piece of a kitchen sponge to dab on the flower heads and threw it away when I was finished. Then I used the writing tip to create the stems. Let the mask dry before you paint over it. Remove it with you finger--the pad of your finger, not your finger nail. Make sure your paper is thoroughly dry before you try to remove the mask or the paper will tear.

By the way, if you are a fiber artist, don't use this on fabric, it won't come out.

Hope this helps,
Judy Leasure, TDA
My art pictures: http://www.picturetrail.com/jleasure
My art blog: http://www.jalstudios.blogspot.com

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How to thin acrylic paints and techniques to use with thinned acrylic paint

Christine asks:
What do you use to thin acrylic paints?

The quick and easy answer is water. Acrylic paints are water-based, therefore when you want to thin them down, just add water. A few common uses for thinning with water include:

1. When you want to use a liner brush. Use water to thin the paint to an inky consistency so that you can load your brush and the paint will flow easily to make smooth lines.

2. For staining. I frequently use acrylic paint to stain a wood piece rather than using a prepared stain. This allows me to use whatever color I want--blue, red, green, brown, grey--it doesn't matter. To do this technique, I take a very damp paper towel and dip it into my puddle of acrylic paint straight out of the bottle and then rub it over my surface going in the direction of the grain. To make darker, repeat the proccess. To make lighter, add water to your paper towel and go over the already stained area before it dries.

3. Creating pale washes of color.

4. Louise Jackson uses acrylic paints to create the look of watercolor on paper. To do this, she thins the paint with water;

5. Floating color for shading and highlighting.

In addition to water, there are some mediums available to some folks use for thinning. Ros Stallcup, for example, uses the DecoArt Faux Glazing Medium instead of water when she wants to thin paint or create floats. She still uses water, however, for line work.

Hope this helps.
Judy Leasure, TDA

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What size are miniature paintings?

Sandra asks:
How small are miniature paintings?

Miniature paintings are actually a very old art form. To qualify as a miniature, a painting must be no larger than 4"x6", although some organizations have a smaller size requirement. There are also requirements regarding the finished size to the outside of the frame. Another requirement is that they be no larger than 1/6 scale. That is, if an object is 6-inches tall in real life, it can be no larger than 1-inch tall in a miniature painting. This requirement can be overlooked in certain circumstances, but it is the general rule. It is also a requirement that the painting be able to stand up to being enlarged. That is, there must be sufficient detail that enlarging the painting will not distort the detail. There are a large number of painters who specialize in painting miniatures and there are a number of miniature shows around the country and around the world each year that draw hundreds of entries. There are even collectors who specialize in miniatures.
Hope this helps,
Judy Leasure, TDA

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Simple color theory or what color goes with purple?

Tina asks:
What color goes with purple? Can you recommend a good book or something? Thanks!

Color can be extremely complex and confusing at times. There are university art courses devoted to just this subject. But one of the easiest ways to figure out a simple color schemes is to use a color wheel. A color wheel that has 12 blocks of color (primary, secondary, and tertiary) is the best to get. It should also have indicators so you can figure out the following basic color schemes:

1) Monochromatic - one color (which would be several different tones of purple)
2) Analogous -colors next to each other on the color wheel (like purple and red)
3) Complimentary - colors that are opposite on the color wheel (like purple and yellow)
4) Split Complementary Color Scheme - one color and the two colors adjacent to it's complementary (yellow and red-violet and blue-violet)
5) Triad - any three colors equidistant on the color wheel (purple-green-orange)
6) Tetradic (or double complementary) - four complimentary colors that form a rectangle on the color wheel (purple-yellow & blue-orange)(purple-yellow & green-red)

That's just a start - there are great books that teach color theory specially for certain crafts. There are color books just for quilters, beaders, and who know what else. My favorite is Color Works: The Crafter's Guide by Deb Menz. She explains the theories and shows examples of each done in a variety of different mediums. She uses the same exact sample for each different color scheme so you can see how the color change affects the design. Nifty!

Hope this helps,
Judi

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