Difference between fusible web and iron-on Pellon

Kerrie asks:
I'd like to know the difference between fusible webbing and iron-on pellon. Fusible webbing I think has a paper backing to it but I have been given I think iron-on pellon which I have attached to an appliqué which should have been fusible webbing??? The iron-on pellon does not seem to have a pull off backing to it. For me to be able to appliqué stitching to it, I think I will have to try and remove the pellon without destroying the water-erasable pen markings that I have already put on it. Can I put fusible webbing straight over the top and still be able to stitch through or will it be too difficult?



Fusible webs are glue or plastic based see through materials that are either encased in paper like the double sticks, or have paper on one side only. They are used to bond the applique pattern pieces to the background fabric.

The iron on pellon is an interfacing – which has glue on one side and is meant to strengthen certain areas of clothing, such as cuffs and facings.

You can put the fusible webbing on top of the interfacing but it will make it stiffer and possibly harder to sew through. I would test it out on a scrap of fabric and see how it works for you.

Best of luck.

Judi

Mola - what are the felt pictures from Panama?

Jackie says:
I can't remember the name of those felt pictures - the ones with lots of layers and stitching. Help!!


I think you are talking about a mola. These are made by the Kuna Indians of Panama. Traditionally they are part of their clothing but you can buy them as small blocks that have been made specifically for the tourist trade now.

According to Panama Arts:


The Kuna Mola is made by the Kuna (Tule or Dule) women, who live at the San Blas Islands in Panama (also known as Kuna Yala). Mola means blouse or clothing in Tule Gaya, the language of the Kuna and is an intrincately designed and sewn art work that the Kuna women use to embellish their dresses.

The Mola is a reverse applique technique in which several layers of cotton are hand sewn together, forming colorful designs which can be traditional geometric shapes or representations of everyday life. The Kuna mythology is also a frecuent theme. They are decoratively stiched for further embellishment.

Often, the best molas seem to be worn down. This is due to the fact that they are used for everyday wearing. After Kuna women no longer want their blouses, and decide to sew a new one, they disassemble the old one and sell the mola panels. This is regarded as a sign that the molas are genuine.

Hope this helps,
Judi

Can you use fabric glue to layer a quilt?

Melanie asks:
Can I use a fabric glue to layer my quilt?

Sure, why not. You can glue just about anything. But I don't recommend it. I don't know what size quilt you are talking about glueing but I would imagine you'd go through quite a few bottles of glue . You would have to glue both sides of the quilt to the batting. This would be very time consuming on a large quilt. I have no idea how this would hold up over time, with washing and with general use. I also don't know how soft and flexible it would be. I don't think I've ever heard of this being done.

If you don't want to quilt the piece by hand or machine why not tie it? This will take way less time and work better than glue. Rule of thumb for quilting is to have some stitching every hand span (in other words if you put your hand on the quilt - fingers spread - you should touch some stitching. Tieing a quilt isn't hard - get a curved upholstery needle and thread it with yarn or embroidery floss. Take a small stitch and tie the threads into a square knot. Do this at the center and corners of each block.

Hope this helps,
Anne

How to sew a 2 part foundation pieced block

Amy says:
I found some neat foundation block patterns over at Piece by Number and I understand the basic concept of how to do this but I don't understand what the A and B stuff means on the patterns.

I had to look at a few of their blocks before I found one with A's and B's. That just means to make the pattern in different sections and then join them. So you piece all the A's and set it aside. Then piece all the B's. When done sew A to B. Thanks for sharing their link - they have great patterns that can be used as fabric postcards as well as quilt blocks.

Hope this helps,
Anne

How to sew straight strips for a quilt block

Kylie asks:
I am trying to make a quilt block using strips but after I sew half a dozen it's not straight anymore; the whole thing bends to the side. Is there some kind of quilting secret I don't know to keep these straight? It's really frustrating.

Oh my - been there, done that! My quilting teacher told me the secret is to flip the block each time you add a strip. In other words, sew two strips together, then when you add the next strip start at the bottom instead of the top. Turn the entire block around so the bottom is now the top. Flip it each time you add another strip.

It's also important to make sure your material is on grain before you cut your strips. One way to do this is to pull one thread out of the crosswise grain. Snip the selvedge and pull one of the threads, it's not the easiest thing in the world if you have a tightly woven fabric, but it can be done. Then you can cut the fabric where the pulled thread was. Now you have a straight line to even up your fabric from.

Hope this helps,
Anne

How to make bumblebee appliques

Dayna asks:
How do I make bumblebee appliques?

You can use the same basic directions that are given in the previous post Make Your Own Appliques. Here's a hint to help with the bumblebee though ... make the body in one color (yellow) and then add the black stripes on top of that. It's easier than trying to make stripes in both colors and then match them up. Also, depending on what you are using the applique for you can make antennae with fabric paint or fabric markers.

Hope this helps,
Judi

What adhesive to use for a temporary hold for fabric

James asks:
I'd like to know what type of adhesive I can buy that stays tacky after it has dried and is low or no odor. I need it for holding fabric I am working on and so I can remove the fabric and stick another piece of fabric to it to work on. thanks a lot!

I really like using the temporary spray adhesives. There are many brands available now; some companies who market them are June Tailor, Dritz, Sullivan, Sulky, and JT Trading. These are all odorless or low odor. I personally use the 505 Temporary Adhesive from JT Trading. Mainly because that's the only one offered at the local quilt shop. I'm happy with it though.

To avoid overspray place your fabric on paper or cardboard before you spray (something disposable). For small pieces you can place them inside the top of a box. Be careful when you get to the bottom of the can, it doesn't spray nicely and you can get globs of the glue spraying out.

Although I have never shopped here, Quilting-Warehouse has a catalog page that shows all the products I mentioned.

Hope this helps,
Anne

What to do about a stolen quilt

Ashley asks:
A quilt I made for a friend was stolen. I'd like to put the word out but I don't know where to start. I'm just heartbroken over this.

I can understand how you feel - when we make any type of gift we put a little bit of ourselves in it. Besides putting an ad in your local paper, you can see if your local fabric shops will let you put up a notice. In our online world you can list your quilt on the Lost Quilt Come Home website. Best of luck finding it!

Anne

What size should seams be on a quilt?

Elizabeth asks:
I’m just starting to make quilts…all quilt patterns call for ¼” seams. However, I’ve seen quilts, after many washings, that fray at the seams. Can I use 1/3” seams instead of ¼” seams? I’m thinking the quilt will not come undone as easily under repeated washings…Thanks!


If you are making a quilt like a log cabin or some type of scrappy quilt that could work but if you are making a quilt with blocks that have points or other shapes that match at the seams it won't work. As quilt blocks are designed for 1/4" seams any matching shapes will be off. For instance a star block is designed so when you sew your 1/4" seam the point will be right up by the seamline. With a 1/3" seam you will sew into the point and you'll lose the point completely. Your quilt would also end up smaller. I suppose you could always cut your strips and pieces wider to make up for a bigger seam allowance but that could be an engineering nightmare.

There are a couple of reasons quilts might fray. One reason is that the quilter didn't sew a true 1/4" seam and/or they didn't have the two fabric pieces aligned. Another reason that quilts fray is due to the quality of the fabric used. A thin fabric is more likely to fray due to a lower thread count. A quick test to see if a cotton fabric has a decent thread count is to hold it up to the light and see if you can see your hand through it. If you can it's probably not the best material to buy. Thread also makes a difference - you can piece with cotton thread rather than polyester thereby equalizing the stress points of the quilt (www.superiorthreads.com). If you use a good quality fabric and good quality thread fraying should not be a problem and you can sew a 1/4" seam.

Hope this helps!
Anne

Make your own appliques

Jean says:
First, thank you for this exceptional service to us "crafters." I'd like to know how to make teapot/teacup appliques. I am making a wall-hanging featuring these items. Thank you.

This was a fun question for me! Here is how I make my own fabric appliques ...

Step 1:
Find some fun clip art and print it at the size you want your applique to be. As long as it is for personal use you should be able to use most clip-art without a problem. Read the policies of the web site where you find your art (or your clip art disks). If you are a good artist you can even draw your own.

Step 2: Look at your picture and see where you can break it up into separate parts. This teapot was pretty easy. Then just trace each piece onto a piece of freezer paper or template material. You will have to complete the shapes on some pieces. On this example I had to redraw one part of the teapot and part of the lid.

Step 3: Trace or iron your templates to your fabric, depending on how you make your appliques. If you are going to turn the edges under you need to add 1/4" seam allowance to the template. If you fuse - place your template on fabric that has the webbing adhesive ironed on already - and then cut out.

Step 4: Put all your pieces back together using your original picture as a guide. If you fuse, use your favorite edge finish - some people like to sew around the pieces, some like to use fabric paint, but do something to avoid fraying. If you turn the seam allowance under and sew it on then you don't have to worry about this!

You can make fun appliques to go on just about anything - I'm thinking of putting some on my jean's pockets now.

Hope this helps!
Judi

Quilting Supply list

Mike asks:
I want to make a quilt but I don't know where to start.

I really recommend taking a beginning quilting class at your local quilt shop - or craft store. It is the easiest way to learn all the tricks, tips, and shortcuts. Most beginning classes will teach you about fabrics, how to use the latest tools, how to cut and sew accurately (a must in quilting) and will help you make your quilt sandwich, then quilt and bind it. That said, I never took a beginner class myself. I bought a good book and I had the phone on speed-dial to one of my quilty friends. If you are going to buy a book to teach yourself look for one that has a single quilt pattern and has good step by step instructions. The book should cover what supplies you need but here's my list:
A rotary cutter and self-healing mat
A gridded ruler, 6"x24"
Flat flower or glass head pins
A 1/4" foot for your sewing machine
Walking or even feed foot for your sewing machine
Quilter's safety pins (1")
Iron

Have fun!
Anne