Showing posts with label Dolls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dolls. Show all posts

Saturday, December 1, 2007

How to make cloth doll joints

Gloria asks:
How do you make joints for cloth dolls?

There are many ways to joint a cloth doll. There are button joints, hinge joints, tab joints, the list goes on. The best thing to do is get the late Susanna Oroyan’s book Anatomy of a Doll. She has a whole section on the different ways to joint a doll. If you can’t buy it right now, try your local library – if they don’t have it on the shelf they should be able to inter-library loan it for you.



Hope this helps!
Judi

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Monday, May 28, 2007

Teapot Challenge - cloth doll contest

JMS asks:
I would like to find the "teapot" challenge" entries. I thank you for your help.

I had to write back and ask for more information as there are various teapot challenges out there ... this is the additional information I received:

This was a dollmaker challenge; a cloth teapot designed by Sherry Goshen. There were many entries of the teapot that featured all sorts of head designs; ie chicken, cats, etc.
They were very creative and colorful. I hope this helps

That made it easy ... Sherry is one of our experts ... the challenge was held over at Lisa Risler's website .. Lisa's Heaven ... here's the photos of the teapots.

Judi

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Saturday, May 19, 2007

Can you find me a 3 in 1 Little Red Riding Hood doll?

Trisha asks:
When my girls were small they had a doll that was three dolls in one, red riding hood, grandmother and the wolf. Ridinghood's skirt covered the grandmother and the wolf was under grandmother's cap (I think that is how it was arranged) Do you know anyone that makes these?

I don't know anyone who makes the Little Red Riding Hood doll but there are four of them up for bid right now over at eBay. They all seem to be made by the same company, Dippity Flip. The doll is vintage from the 70s, so if your girls are adults now there's a good possibility this is the same doll your daughters had. Just type in 3 in 1 Riding Hood in the search box and see what pops up. If you drop down past the auction items to the eBay stores you will see an assortment of other 3 in 1 Little Red Riding Hood dolls. I bet you can find something you like between the auctions and the stores.

Hope this helps,
Judi

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Friday, May 18, 2007

How to make Pearl Ex powder permanent on polymer clay.

Velia asks:
After baking, my polymer clay faces were painted with Pearl Ex Series one powders. The eyes with acrylic paints. When dry, I sprayed with a fixative - however, I find that the Pearl Ex comes off. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a way this problem can be corrected by using other metallic paints?

You should paint the faces with the Pearl Ex BEFORE baking. It bonds to the polymer and has a lovely sheen after baking.

Hope that helps,
Judi and Sherry

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Tuesday, May 15, 2007

How to unclog a Micron Pigma pen

Judi writes:
My .005 Micron Pigma pen clogs easily. Right now I can't get it to write at all. Can you help me?

Yes and no. I have the same problem with mine and haven't found a satisfactory answer. I wrote to the folks at Sakura about it and here's what they say:

The Micron nib will absorb loose material such as pencil dust which could clog the nib. The 005 is also very delicate and if the nib is bent, it will appear dry.


Pigma Micron Care and Quality

Sakura invented Microns as an inexpensive and disposable alternative to high-priced technical pens while maintaining technical-pen quality. Microns were originally designed for fine-line technical and art drawing but their use has spread to every-day applications.

Most complaints we receive about Microns concern bent tips. Like technical pens, Microns are meant to be written with at a 90 degree angle. Also like technical pens, people don’t need to apply as much pressure to Microns for receiving a “healthy’ ink flow. Shaking or dropping the Micron will cause the ink to flood around the ink wick and flood the cap. If you apply these practices, you will receive far more satisfaction using the Micron pen.


How can I make my Pigma® Microns last longer?



Pigma Microns are considered disposable pens. The product specifications and design use are for paper and not for rough surfaces such as wood or nubby fabrics.


a. Hold your Pigma Micron pen in a 90° degree position while writing. This will prevent uneven wear to the tip of the nib. They should be stored horizontally with their caps securely fastened.


b. Use a 05 or 08 point size when marking against hard, rough surfaces such as wood or nubby fabrics.


c. Use more than one pen, and rotate your pen use. This allows pens to rejuvenate the ink flow overnight and this extends the life of the pen.


d. Do not press down hard on the nib while you write. The excessive pressure wears down the plastic nib faster, especially on rough surfaces.


e. Do not make long uninterrupted lines against rough paper surfaces or wood with the pen. Make shorter line strokes and the pen nib will last longer.


f. When writing on paint, make sure that the paint is fully dried, not just surfaced cured. Acrylic paints may feel dry to the touch but just below the surface, may not be. The nib picks up bits of the wet paint and will clog easily. One needs to experiment to be sure the paint is completely dry due to differences in weather conditions. Remember, the paint drying time will differ depending upon the brand of paint you use.


g. If you have one Micron pen which is out of ink (and the nib is not clogged), you can exchange its nib with another Micron pen which is not out of ink, but has a clogged nib. Here's how -- With a needle nose pliers, firmly grasp the metal sleeve and gently pull the nib straight out. A long ink wick will be attached to the back of the nib holder. This ink wick is what brings the ink to the nib. Do the same for the bad nib / ink-full pen. Now gently insert the good nib into the pen with ink. Make sure the nib assembly is seated snugly into the pen barrel. Put the cap back on the pen. Then you must wait for about 3 hours for the ink to gradually pull itself through the ink wick into the nib. Do not try to rush the process by shaking the pen - you'll only create a mess by making the ink go around the ink wick and flood the pen cap. (Note: This process does not always work, but it is worth a try. Also, do not mix ink colors. Do not take a red pen nib and insert it into a green ink pen!)

h. Do not try to put any other brand ink refill into the Pigma Microns pens. They will not work.

Hope this helps!

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Wednesday, May 9, 2007

How to sew on Raggedy doll hair

CJ asks:
I'd like to know how to make hair of a raggedy ann doll. I don't have any felting needle and can't do it like the simplicity pattern says to.

I'm going to give you three different answers and you can choose which method you like best .

First is from Jacque - who makes the most gorgeous Raggedy's I've ever seen ...
I do the illusion of hair unless this doll is for a child. I wrap ten times around a cardboard (depending on the size of doll the length of hair), tie off in the center and clip each end loose. Start in the middle glue the first piece then two on each side. I rake it all forward then cut around from one side to the other leaving bangs..I hope this helps.

Sherry says:
You can sew them or glue them with fabri-tac if not for a child...if for a child i would sew them with uphostery thread.

This is how I would do it ....
I would cut the yarn to the length needed (doubled .. so if you want 4" long, cut 8") and use 3 or 4 pieces for each 'bundle'. Thread a needle with a long piece of strong thread and enter at the back of the head. Put the needle back in about 1/8” from the first stitch to create a loop. Put the bundle in the loop, center it, and pull the thread tight. Repeat. Sew your bundles on in a spiral pattern. Trim as needed when complete.

Hope this helps ...
Judi

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Monday, April 30, 2007

Life size doll pattern

A Raven Rose asked:
I'd like to know where to find lifesize Farmer and Wife, I have a wagon life size and would love to sit Farmer and wife on seat of wagon, can you help me please!! Thank you so very much.

The girls in my doll club made a few life size dolls using the Mildred and the Professor pattern from Julie McCullough. We found the doll wore about a size 6. Although the photo of the dolls show older folk you can make them any age you like.

Have fun and buy LOTS of stuffing!
Judi

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Friday, April 27, 2007

What size Pigma pens to use for doll faces

Sandra asks
I've just started making dolls and I'm not sure what size of those Pigma pens to get. They are called for in a pattern I have but the size isn't given. I don't know what to buy.

For very fine lines you should buy the .005 size. This size is good for drawing outlines of eyes, lips, and other details. For eyeliner a thicker nib could be used, like an .01.

Always store these pens horizontally. The nibs can become plugged with other media (pencil, pen) and if that happens gently draw the nib across a paper towel to clean it.

Best of luck with your doll making.
Judi

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Saturday, April 14, 2007

How to draw realistic eyes

Beth says:
My doll's eyes don't look very lifelike - they're kind of dull. Can you give me some hints on how to draw better eyes?

Besides the old mantra, practice makes perfect I would study photographs of eyes in magazines. That will help with shape and color. You could also take a look at this tutorial (even though it is for computer art) and it will give you some great ideas. One of the things to remember is that our eyes are a multitude of colors and shades. Even the white of the eyes isn't really white.

Best of luck,
Judi

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Thursday, April 5, 2007

How to make cloth doll fingernails

Beth asks:
What's the best way to paint cloth doll fingernails?

I think this is pretty much a personal preference. There are quite a number of ways to do it. After you have drawn your fingernail shape (making sure to leave some fabric showing on the sides)you can either...
1. Color it in with gel pen or colored pencil
2. Use real nail polish (although I don't know what it would do to the fabric in the long run).
3. Color it with pen/pencil and give it a layer of Royal Coat Dimensional Magic (for shine and dimension).
4. Put on a coat of colored Crystal Lacquer (gives shine and dimension). Can be 'pulled' out for long fingernails.
5. Glue on false fingernails that have been cut down to doll size.

Hope this helps,
Judi

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Friday, March 30, 2007

What pattern to use to make a realistic soft sculpture doll

Chloe asks:
I am an art student trying to make a realistic soft sculpture dummy, much like crash test dummy featured on the website. However, my sewing skills aren't spectacular. I am just curious what kind of pattern I should try to make or how to go about creating a realistically proportioned dummy.

Chloe is referring to my Crash Test Daughter doll, a photo of which is here. This is my own pattern which has never been finished. I think you could probably tackle the Basic Woman by Barbara Graff in the 32 inch size. The bigger the doll is, the easier it will be to sew the fiddly bits like fingers. You can buy this pattern at Cloth Doll Patterns or Dollmaker's Journey.

Just remember these basic tips:
Set your sewing machine stitch at 1.5 mm or 16 stitches per inch
Stop and lift your presser foot and pivot the fabric every few stitches on curves, don't pull your fabric.
Clip all your curves after you cut the pattern out and before you turn it inside out.
Practice makes perfect! (or at least you get a lot better!)

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Thursday, March 15, 2007

Is there a pattern for a Captain Jack Sparrow doll?

Susie D asks:
I'd like to know where I can find a cloth doll or felt doll pattern of Captain Jack Sparrow?


Disney is fiercely protective of their copyrighted characters and if you haven't bought a license to reproduce their characters they will ask you to remove your 'item' from the market. That might be why I haven't found a pattern. Most doll makers don't the money (or the desire) to buy a license. They would probably have to sell thousands of patterns to get their money back.

There a lot of original Jack Sparrow dolls around although most of them are in polymer. I recently saw a wonderful cloth version of this character but I can't find the photo again to save my life.

Here's what I would do if I wanted to make a Captain Jack Sparrow doll. Buy a basic male doll pattern and then use photos to create the look (makeup)and the costuming. The Matador by Claire Ellen might be a good pattern to adapt. Good luck!

Hope this helps,
Judi

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Wednesday, March 14, 2007

How to applique a doll face to a purse

Ann asks:
I've made a flat cloth doll face, colored, layered with batting and muslin. I'd like to place this on a cloth purse I'm making, but I'm not sure how to proceed. Any advice is appreciated.

I've made a couple of purses like this and it's really easy. You didn't say if the face was cut out or not - so if not, just cut it out leaving the face a 1/4" bigger than the batting and backing. (You might need to grade the batting and backing.) Then use a strong hand stitching thread and sew it to the purse by catching the edges of the face and then the purse. Turn the extra material under as you stitch along. Take lots of tiny stitches and it will be very secure. As you can see in the example I added trim around the face afterwards. Not only does it add a wonderful decorative touch but it covers all your stitching too.

Hope this helps,
Sherry

P.S. Judi here ... I'm adding my two cents worth. You might want to
use a sealer to help keep the face clean. I like Craftgard - which can pretty much only be found on eBay nowadays. Spray the face before you sew it on.

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Monday, March 5, 2007

How to build your own doll finger turning kit

Anne asks:
I need to buy some rods and tubes to turn doll fingers. Although I could buy the finger turning kits through mail order doll suppliers; I wonder if the brass rod and tubes that are available at my local Ben Franklin work just as well. If so, what size rods and tubes should I buy?

The brass rods and tubes will work fine. The hobby shops usually sell these in about a 12" length. You can cut them in half if you want and you'd have two sets. You can get really long tubes from the hardware store and you can get 3 sets out of those. You can cut them with a Dremel or use a little tubing cutter. But you have to bevel the edges and get rid of any burrs. A grinder works well for this. But it's more trouble than it's worth if you ask me (I used to make and sell these). So just buy the shortest length you can find. The 12" would be okay without being too unwieldy.

Anyhow - here's the sizes I would buy to make my sets: 5/32, 3/32, 1/8, and 3/16. Those are the hollow tubes. You only need one rod to turn the fingers with. Just find the thinnest, strongest rod that will fit in your smallest tube. I recently bought one that was 1/16" if I recall correctly. These sizes work great for 22" inch dolls and smaller.

Hope this helps,
Judi


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Thursday, February 22, 2007

What is the best gauge for cloth doll armatures?

Shirley asks:
I want to make a doll with a wire armature, she's cloth, but I don't know how thick or what type to use. Thanks.

For a doll up to 22" a 16 (1/16") or 18 gauge wire is best. The same wire that other sculptors use is good for these dolls - aluminum. You can get this from various sources but a good brand is Almaloy. You may not find it locally but you can find it online. Aluminum wire is non-corrosive, fully pliable, and non-staining so it is great for use inside cloth doll bodies.

Hope this helps,
Sherry


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Wednesday, January 31, 2007

How to dye doll hair using Kool-aid and mohair

Mary asks:
Do you have a quick and easy way to color mohair? I have some plain stuff and I want to make some fairy hair.

The easiest way to color mohair is to use good old Kool-Aid, the powdered drink mix. You can use Kool-Aid on any animal fiber. Here's how to do it:

  1. Mix one package of Kool-aid with enough water to cover your mohair and put it in a cup or other microwave safe container. The less water the more saturated the color. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap (you want it to steam).
  2. Zap it for two minutes in the microwave.
  3. Let cool and check the water - (BE CAREFUL - you don't want steam burns!) if the color is gone from the water it's done, if not, repeat the process.
  4. When the dye has been absorbed into the mohair it's done.
  5. Let it cool and then rinse in warm water.

If you want crazy fairy hair, try this:
  1. Mix up as many colors of Kool-aid as you want in separate glasses (about 3-4 TB of water per pkg)
  2. Drizzle the color where you want it on the mohair (use a spoon or medicine dropper)
  3. Press the mohair gently to distribute the color (use gloves)
  4. Microwave and let cool
I have some pink hair I dyed years ago and it's still as bright as the day I dyed it. The fun part is figuring out what colors the packages of Kool-aid make.

If you want to know how to dye your own hair using Kool-Aid read this post.

Have fun!
Judi

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Tuesday, January 9, 2007

DIY Healing Doll


DJ asks:
How do I make a healing doll?

Healing dolls can be made to address a specific area that a person wants to heal, whether it be physical, mental, emotional or spiritual. They can take any form you wish - from a goddess style body to an abstract art doll. The key to this type of doll is intention. If you think about the person (or yourself, if the doll is for your own healing) you will get an idea of what form the doll should take; if you work intuitively just get out some fabric or other materials and see what attracts you. There are colors and gems that have commonly held meanings that you could choose to incorporate in your palette. For instance, red is supposed to be good for blood related conditions and burning out cancer and a ruby is supposed to aid in healing heart conditions. I'm not going to list them all here but if you do a search on the term 'healing gems' or 'healing colors' you will find many websites that explain it. So, let's say you have the basic form in mind and you've decided on your color scheme. Now as you make the doll meditate on the person you are making it for and imbue it with strength and healing thoughts. You can make specific objects for the doll to represent certain ideas if you so desire. The healing doll pictured here is one I made, she is a little warrior - holding a sword of strength and a courageous heart. She is armored to ward off evil (thoughts, germs, etc) and her head is shaped with rays of light (energy, light at the end of the tunnel, etc). There are many ways to make a healing doll and your heart will show you the one that needs to be made.

Hope this helps!
Judi


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Friday, December 29, 2006

How to design bare feet for cloth dolls


Marcia asks:

I'd love to make some of my cloth dolls with bare feet, but I've had a hard time coming up with the pattern myself, and I haven't seen any instructions online. Can you give me some advice? Thanks....and thanks for the great blog!For a very basic foot, the key is to sew the foot in two steps. Here is a funny little leg I'm working on for a troll that we will use as a visual aid. When you design your foot pattern, leave the toe area open and make it a little longer than you wish the finished foot to be. Then sew your leg together. For the troll leg I sewed all around the outside of the leg - leaving an opening at the back of the thigh to stuff through and leaving the toe area unsewn. Don't turn the leg inside out yet. Open the toe area so the seams are centered on the top and bottom of the foot. Pin. Draw a curved line for the toes. Make sure you have a left and right foot. Sew on the curved line. Clip, turn and stuff. Then you can needle sculpt the toes in.

Hope this helps!
Judi



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